All of Southeast Asia is a little bit crazy, but Vietnam is in a class of its own. I struggled with how to organize this post, but I ultimately decided to allow it to feel a little disjointed to reflect my experiences. 

I entered Vietnam with pretty high expectations. Several backpackers I met throughout my travels said it was their favorite country in Southeast Asia. My first few days here, however, were disappointing. And I’m still a little conflicted about my overall impression. 

In my opinion, Vietnam boasts some of the best scenery and food in the region. But people don’t smile and greet you warmly like they do in the rest of Southeast Asia. Vendors, particularly in the north, can be pretty abrasive – and at times, aggressive. People routinely cut in lines and nudged me out of their way.

I eventually came to the realization that 100% of those happy independent travelers had truly gotten off the beaten path by renting a motorbike and touring the countryside. And I would estimate that about 90% of those travelers also experienced motorbike accidents. I personally didn’t feel comfortable renting a motorbike here, even if I missed out on some of those special experiences.

Northern Vietnam 

Hanoi

It’s gloriously cool here this time of year – in the 60s. One of my favorite parts of traveling is simply wandering around, which is too miserable to attempt during the day throughout most of Southeast Asia. I hadn’t realized just how much the heat over the past two months had been affecting me, until I walked over eleven miles on my first day here!

The Old Quarter comprises a web of complete chaos, largely due to the prevalence of so many motorbikes in close quarters. They weave all over the place, and Vietnam wins my prize for drivers who incessantly honk their horns. Apparently, sidewalks in northern Vietnam exist primarily to serve as parking spaces for motorbikes, and secondarily as a road for the motorbikes. Crossing the street safely is an art form: stoplights are rare, and Vietnamese drivers consider them mere “suggestions.”

The French Quarter in Hanoi is beautiful and a bit more peaceful. If you squint your eyes, it feels like you are in Paris, from the architecture to the bakeries and parks.

It’s illegal for restaurants to use the sidewalks in front of their businesses, since they don’t technically own that space. So, vendors all over the city use plastic tables and stools, which they snatch up while running away when the police show up (yet the cops patronize those same restaurants, eating at those chairs and tables, when they’re not on duty).

To be polite, I make a habit of using the native words for hello, goodbye, and thank you when I’m in a foreign country. Vietnamese, however, is a tonal language, which means that inflections are key for communicating correctly. For example, the word bo can mean seven different things. I discovered partway into my visit that when I thought I was saying “thank you, goodbye” to shopkeepers, I may have actually been saying “shut up, bitch!” Needless to say, I switched back to English for the rest of my visit. P.S. If you use the wrong inflection when ordering pho, you might actually be requesting a prostitute.

Bai Tu Long Bai

My tour to Bai Tu Long Bay for Christmas was unfortunately a disappointment. Fog covered the famous karsts most of the time. Our overnight destination, an island which the tour billed as having “stunning crescent beaches,” was an eyesore (or at least, the guide never took us to this beach). Garbage was strewn everywhere, and there was nothing quaint about our lodging. Luckily, I was with some very kind people, and the fact that it didn’t really feel like Christmas helped me get through it.

Ninh Binh province

This area makes a fun day trip from Hanoi, with beautiful scenery and several tombs and shrines.

Central Vietnam

Hue

This city served as the capital of Vietnam in the 19th century and continued to house an emperor symbolically until the country gained its independence from France. Unfortunately, bombs from the Vietnam War (or as they call it here, the American War) destroyed much of the Imperial City. The paint has peeled and aged in a very atmospheric way, and the grounds are fun to explore. 

In the area surrounding Hue, each emperor commissioned his own tomb, which typically included extensive grounds. The photos below feature the most famous ones.

Tourist Infrastructure

Group tours are cheap and in general a good way to see sights outside of Vietnam’s urban areas. But they can be pretty hit-or-miss (refer to how I spent my Christmas, above).

I think that Vietnam has undergone so much change in the past three decades that their tourist infrastructure is struggling to adapt. The example that made me laugh the hardest was the tour that included a stop at a beach. Our guide walked us through the grounds of a hotel that appeared to be abandoned but was just closed for the season. At the edge of the pool patio, we looked out at a beach that we couldn’t actually walk on because it was blocked off by barbed wire. I understand this to some degree, since it’s the rainy season and the waves can be dangerous, but then why in the world did we stop here for half an hour?! 

Also, Vietnam doesn’t appear to have any copyright laws. I’ve run into several companies warning people not to fall for their competitors’ copycat tours, travel agencies, taxi companies, etc. So it’s also difficult for independent travelers to navigate the tourism industry here.

Hoi An

Like everyone else, this was my favorite Vietnamese city. Hoi An thrived as an important trading hub on the Silk Road for centuries. International merchants, most significantly from Japan and China “set up shop” here and added their cultural stamp.

The architectural aesthetic features mustard-colored exteriors with turquoise shutters. Carved ironwood adorns buildings with original interiors. The whole effect is quite stunning, especially with the lanterns strung everywhere.

During its rise in the trading sphere, Hoi An also gained a reputation for its excellent tailors, a tradition it maintains today. This was a highlight for me: selecting patterns and fabrics and then within 24 hours, picking up four new, perfectly fitted dresses at prices that would rival the Gap.

Central Highlands

The central highlands gained popularity over the past couple of centuries due to its cooler temperatures, providing respite as well as an ideal climate for growing flowers and many varieties of fruits. In addition, the scenery is lovely.

I experienced one of the most special moments of my entire trip here when I stumbled upon a guide who leads small tours to locations not on the tourist circuit.

He grew up in a hill tribe in this region, so he speaks their language. We drove to a village he had never visited. A little background: the villagers remain very isolated from the outside world, but they weren’t immune from attack during the American War. Now, the village elders are wary of all white people, because they think they’re all Americans with bad intentions.

Our guide approached an older woman who was peeling bamboo shoots outside her home with a machete. He briefly explained why we were there and asked if she would show us her home. She started yelling at him and waving her machete at all of us.

The full story is probably best told in person. Long story short: the situation evolved from the machete incident to the villagers offering us handmade textiles as gifts and inviting us to stay for dinner and dancing later that evening. In between those events, we were treated to a show-and-tell of sorts with singing, dancing, traditional instruments, a hand loom demonstration, and rat stew. 

And because our guide asked us not to document our visit, I unfortunately have no photos of this incredible experience. But it made all of the strange incidents in my time in Vietnam, including the hiccups, worth it.

Southern Vietnam

Mui Ne

I enjoyed one last beach day in this lovely fishing village.

Some of the men here fish from large round tubs rather than traditionally-shaped boats. The legend is that this practice originated during French colonialism, to avoid taxes by creating a vessel that bypassed their definition of a boat.

Ho Chi Minh City/Saigon

During my travels in Vietnam, I felt acutely aware that as an American, some Vietnamese might not welcome my presence. However, besides the hill tribe experience, I didn’t get the sense that Americans from my generation were viewed any differently than other tourists.

I spent my last day touring historic sites in Saigon, including the War Remnants Museum. This museum documents the American War, and it was honestly a tough, emotional experience. But as a historian, I also found it fascinating to get a glimpse into how Vietnam views and portrays the conflict. Exhibits emphasized three themes: the global opposition to the war, the atrocities inflicted by American troops, and the bravery and heroism of the Vietnamese.

Ultimately, my impression of Vietnam improved throughout my visit. As I spent more time here (and traveled further south), I encountered much friendlier people. Some situations amused me, others confused me, many charmed me, and I was definitely never bored!

This is my last post for a few weeks, as I’ll be returning to Colorado to spend time with family and friends, enjoy the comforts of home, and get ready for the next phase of my adventures – this time in the western hemisphere. As always, thanks for reading!!