Overall, I love living abroad, as I always suspected I would. The opportunities to explore and to be fully immersed in another culture continually delight me. And I’m grateful I landed in Quito, as Ecuador is a fascinating, endless mystery to unravel. 

Yet I’ve decided not to return to South America after this school year. I am excited about my future plans and eager to be reunited with my family and friends. But I am trying to stay present and to continue embracing the opportunities available for the remainder of my time here. 

This year played a significant role in my personal growth. For example, initially all errands gave me anxiety, due to the language barrier and unfamiliarity of everything. In general, I had to problem-solve novel, sometimes overwhelming, challenges on a daily basis.

Fast-forward ten months, I now feel more comfortable in my grasp of the language. More importantly, this experience has instilled in me more confidence and a much greater self-awareness. It has served as a good reminder of the amazing, unexpected changes we experience when we push out of our comfort zone.

Medellín

Along this theme, I recently traveled solo to Medellín, Colombia, for a long holiday weekend. I understand why this city is attracting digital nomads. Its pleasant climate, tropical vegetation, affordable cost of living and quaint cafes and restaurants appeal to me as well, though I prefer Quito for its cultural amenities and deeper historical roots. 

In the late 1980s, Medellín was considered the most dangerous city in the world, due to the influence of the drug cartels. Today, most locals treat Pablo Escobar like Voldemort in that they won’t even say his name. One of my tour guide’s earliest memories was hiding under his bed to wait out shootouts, and he witnessed horrific events that clearly still haunt him. Today, Medellín is very safe and has received multiple awards reflecting its recent changes.

Comuna 13

I also toured Comuna 13, which used to be the most dangerous neighborhood in this most dangerous city in the world. Nearby hills provided ideal, discreet transportation routes for cocaine. At the peak of Escobar’s drug empire, the homicide rate here was 20 people per day!

The neighborhood has undergone a complete transformation within only the past 10 years. This fascinating success story is largely due to investment in the infrastructure, as well as the influence of graffiti and hip hop.

For example, the government invested millions of dollars into a metro system, as well as cable cars that facilitate movement between the steep hills on the outskirts of the city and the core. This provides greater accessibility for the locals in terms of job opportunities and the ability for tourists to visit wider areas of the city. In addition, the neighborhood built a beautiful youth center with indoor basketball courts, a game room, etc. to provide a safe place for kids to just be kids.

Graffiti artists earn a living by securing sponsors, who gain publicity via photos on social media. This started attracting tourists, which has generated various additional jobs in the neighborhood. The graffiti here is impressive and fun to explore!

In addition, Comuna 13 youth increasingly see hip hop dancing as an alternative pathway versus gang membership. Another tour guide, who grew up in Comuna 13, told heart-wrenching stories about how gang leaders killed some of his childhood friends because they resisted joining a gang. These leaders preyed on them because kids under 16 can’t be legally prosecuted. 

While Colombia hasn’t eradicated cocaine’s influence, these stories of hope serve as interesting examples of potential change.

Quilotoa

Quilotoa Crater, a four hour drive from Quito, is stunning! The landscape throughout this region is beautiful, and the crater itself is one of the most incredible places I’ve ever seen. Pictures don’t adequately capture its dramatic, turquoise hues or provide an accurate sense of its massive scale. Some friends and I hiked its circumference, which took most of the day.

Viva la Chiva

One Friday evening, some friends rented a chiva. The name for these party buses means “goat,” supposedly a derivation from when these vehicles were originally driven along steep mountain roads. Chivas today are open-sided buses with the interior stripped out and replaced with a DJ, bright lights, a dance floor, and a steady flow of canelazo (a fermented sugar cane beverage). Renting chivas is a popular tradition during Fiestas de Quito, commemorating the day Spain founded the city.

The chiva experience was fun, yet bittersweet, and perfect for this moment of my journey. For two hours, we cruised past several places I’ve come to know during my time here – parks, museums, plazas and beautifully backlit historic buildings. It was a good opportunity to reminisce and reinforced that I have come to truly love this city.

The Magic of Friendship

While I tend not to post a lot of pictures of people, I would be remiss if I didn’t acknowledge the role new friends played in enriching my time here. From hikes and bike rides, to parties and dinners out, to weekend excursions, I rarely felt lonely.

I still have two more weeks of school. Then I’ll take a quick jaunt to Peru before returning to the States for the rest of the summer. In the meantime, I’m soaking it all in, grateful for this amazing adventure.