The past three weeks have been pretty surreal, watching the coronavirus explode into a pandemic while abroad. Guatemala felt like a world away – both in this regard, as well as in some of my experiences here.

After studying Spanish for three weeks in Antigua, I was ready to switch it up and do some sightseeing in other areas of the country. 

Adventures in Transportation

I was nervous about using Guatemala’s transportation system before I arrived. My guidebook includes a lot of warnings about different bus lines that should be avoided at all costs, and in general about being vigilant. My first week here, I learned that sometimes thieves will force their way onto a bus, point their guns at the driver and force all passengers to hand over everything in their wallets. This had happened to one of the teachers at my school in three separate incidents over the past few years. 

However, I quickly learned that it’s possible to skip public transportation altogether, because tourist agencies in all of the “hot spots” can arrange door-to-door, private shuttles to the major sites and towns. So it’s relatively easy and comfortable to be an independent traveler. Transportation prices are inexpensive, and while there are often delays in pick-up times, all of my rides did show up. The downside is that it typically takes twice as long as quoted to get anywhere – which is a running joke here.

And, I still had my share of adventures getting around – and out of – Guatemala!

For example, at one point, the only option for getting to my destination was to board a shuttle van that was absolutely stuffed to the gills. The side sliding door was propped open to extend passenger space to its maximum capacity – people were standing on the running board while the shuttle was in motion! I squeezed inside and clutched a bar that ran along the ceiling for dear life to keep our Jenga formation intact. I really wish I could’ve snapped a picture of this experience, because it was truly unbelievable!

Rio Dulce

Located in the eastern part of the country, this rural area’s lush jungle vegetation hosts a variety of exotic animals. Very early in the morning, I was awoken by the haunting, distinctive calls of howler monkeys – amazing! These calls can transmit up to 5 kilometers away. Then the local roosters decided to chime in too, which was a strange combination!

El Boqueron

This adventure included arranging a boat ride up a river, and then wading – and sometimes swimming – through pools of water surrounded by dramatic rock formations. Eventually, I arrived at a hiking trail. I felt like Lewis and Clark while exploring this off-the-beaten-path destination.

Livingston

A boat tour along the Rio Dulce transported me to Livingston, known for its unique Garifuna (Afro-Caribbean) culture. Although I only had an afternoon here, I enjoyed hiking on the beach to a chain of beautiful freshwater pools and waterfalls called Los Siete Altares.

El Petén 

Flores is cute town with a Caribbean vibe: colorful architecture, pretty cobblestone streets, and interesting restaurants. 

It also serves as the gateway to Tikal, the famous ancient Mayan city. I loved exploring Tikal’s amazing ruins and the vistas they provide of distant temples. It was also fascinating to see the vegetation covering pyramids that haven’t been excavated to better appreciate just how much work is necessary to extract these structures – and why only 30% percent of this city has been uncovered. The antics of nearby coatis (in the raccoon family) and squirrel monkeys provided unexpected entertainment.

I also went spelunking in a cavern near Flores, which was really fun! My tour guide was a kid, maybe 13 years old, who didn’t speak a word of English. The tour lasted a couple of hours and required squirming through some pretty tight passages. It challenged me and also confirmed that I don’t have claustrophobia.

Lake Atitlán

Stunning Lake Atitlán provided the backdrop for my last week in Guatemala, where I returned to the classroom for a few more days. The small town of San Pedro has a large backpacker community within an indigenous Tz’utujil (Mayan) population.  

All of the Guatemalans I met were lovely people, but the family hosting my homestay here in particular warmly invited me into their lives. I learned so much from our meal conversations about the local culture. They still use a Mayan calendar, prominently posted on the wall, for planning festivals and other Mayan traditions. The women and most of the girls in this community wear traditional clothing.

Family is incredibly important in Guatemala, more so than I saw anywhere else during my travels this year. For example, extended families typically live within a few minutes’ walk of each other and frequently eat meals together.

I spent one day in the nearby town of Chichicastenango, which is famous for its market and for its colorful cemetery.

Heading Home

When the coronavirus escalated to a pandemic, it felt pretty surreal to be hanging out in a low-key backpacker community that hadn’t yet witnessed any impact. Meanwhile, news and Facebook updates were flooded with urgent concerns and posts about shortages in consumer goods such as toilet paper.

Then, on Saturday, Guatemala reported its first fatality. You could instantly feel the tension escalating. I had purchased an airline ticket for Tuesday, yet by mid-day Sunday, I realized I was running out of time to leave the country. The government had already announced a ban on U.S. citizens’ entry, and national parks such as Tikal abruptly closed.

I scrambled to pack my things and caught the last boat for the day from San Pedro after rebooking my flight. I then arranged a taxi for the 3 hour drive to Guatemala City. The next morning, I hopped on my flight, for which I feel so fortunate – when I landed, my phone alerted me that my original flight had been cancelled. The president had just announced that as of midnight, the airport would discontinue flights. 

It felt strange to return to the U.S. Everyone else here had already begun adjusting to the “new normal” of social distancing, quarantining and closures of schools and businesses.

I’m not bitter about my travels getting cut short. I feel incredibly grateful that I got out of Guatemala hours before they closed their borders and relieved to be back home. My personal journey continues, just in a different format.