I spent a month this summer waking up at 6:00 a.m., backpacking for 6-8 hours – sometimes in the blazing sun – then sleeping in a bunk bed in a room with strangers. And I loved (almost) every minute of it. 

My quest was to walk over 500 miles on El Camino de Santiago. Beyond the sense of accomplishment in achieving this, it also provided an opportunity to explore much of northern Spain, eat delicious food, and meet interesting people from all around the world. For example, at the communal meal on my first night, my 9 dinner companions were from Lithuania, Switzerland, Iran, the Netherlands, Poland and Andorra! I also had ample opportunities to practice my Spanish. And my trip was incredibly affordable.

The Camino was established over 1,000 years ago as a pilgrimage to the tomb of St. James. Several routes exist, since medieval pilgrims began this journey from their homes throughout Europe. Today, people walk the Camino for a variety of reasons, and over 430,000 pilgrims trekked at least one portion of it last year! I decided to walk the classic French Way due to its extensive history, including famous travelers such as Charlemagne, remnants of Roman roads, and significant cathedrals. 

Departing from St. Jean Pied de Port, France – although the French Way starts in France near the Pyrenees, pilgrims cross the border into Spain by the end of the first day

In some ways, it is impossible to capture this journey in words. It was transformative in ways I can’t fully articulate – and completely different than anything I’ve experienced. But I’ll try to describe some of the highlights, as well as the essence of the journey itself.

Highlights

I didn’t rely on a guidebook or itinerary, but rather just let each day unfold. While I always had a general sense of what was ahead, such as where I could find meals, water and lodging, as well as major sites in the bigger cities, I generally didn’t make reservations in advance for albergues (lodging for pilgrims). Instead, I just walked until I became tired. As a result, I constantly encountered surprises throughout my journey.

I’ll describe one memorable day as an example:

As normal, the morning started out cool and crisp, perfect for walking. After an hour, I had trekked beyond any semblance of towns but was starting to get hungry for breakfast. All of a sudden, I stumbled upon an amazing oasis for pilgrims, with a huge breakfast spread, encouraging notes, and hammocks! It was a donativo, or in other words, funded strictly by donations from partakers. It was completely unexpected and incredibly touching.

I continually encountered similar acts of kindness along my journey.

Later that morning, I arrived in Astorga. I spent time wandering around the lovely historic center. The city has ruins from a Roman bath and villa, with well-preserved mosaic floors. The highlight in Astorga was touring Bishop’s Palace, designed by Gaudi.

When I felt tired, I stopped for the night in a quaint village. The routine typically included taking a hot shower, journaling, and eating dinner with fellow pilgrims. Then I explored the town, getting a sense of the community and architecture there. On this particular night, the local church hosted a service with Gregorian chants.

Other Special Moments

Each day had moments like these. A few other highlights include:

• A staff member at an albergue greeting me by preparing a foot bath after a particularly grueling day
• Homemade communal meals by staff and selfless volunteers, including paella and authentic Italian (complete with after-dinner limoncello!)
• Meeting the chickens who go to church on Sundays in Santo Domingo de la Calzada to commemorate a miracle from the Middle Ages
• The common greeting of “buen camino,” both from locals and fellow pilgrims along the entire trek
• Walking through wine country and indulging in wine-tastings
• Encountering a large group of Asian pilgrims that gave everyone double high-fives at their reconvening points – including me as I walked by! – while chanting, “happy, happy” to each other
• Finding a gem of an albergue on a very hot day, in what felt like the middle of nowhere, with a spring-fed pool and cold beer
• Encountering young Spanish kids with shells around their necks, walking with their families on day hikes – pilgrims in training!
• The town where all of the locals, including hordes of teenagers, congregated on the river after siesta to play in the water

Navarette Cathedral

The Journey

Walking several hours every day for over a month changes you. It’s impossible to predict what each day will bring. You just have to open yourself up to whatever is going to come your way. This is the part of the experience that is hardest to articulate yet was also the most impactful for me. Hours of “thinking time” ultimately gave me tremendous peace and clarity, though sometimes this process brought up strong emotions. I also experienced moments of intense spirituality.

However, the Camino is not for everyone, especially if you’re expecting dramatic scenery every day or don’t like sharing spaces with strangers. And I could write an entire book on the quirky people I met!

One day on the trail, I walked next to a pilgrim telling a story about how a friend got hit by a branch when hiking, and that when his partner pulled the branch back, his eye came out with it. I had to stop to adjust my gear before hearing the end of the story. A few days went by before I ran into her at a coffee break and was finally able to hear the conclusion. It’s a good illustration of the interactions you have with other pilgrims throughout your journey on the Camino – you typically encounter the same people regularly and learn bits and pieces of their stories (and their friends’ stories!) over time. And it’s an absolutely wonderful, supportive community that bonds over this shared experience.

After walking for a month, detecting the cathedral off in the distance from the Monte do Gozo (Mount of Joy) was quite moving. I had mixed, somewhat contradictory feelings as the end of my journey felt near. 

Arriving at the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela was an emotional experience. This was kilometer zero, to which the signposts had been counting down for the past 800 kilometers! I visited the crypt with the tomb of St. James and was very fortunate that the noon mass I attended included the dramatic botafumeiro ceremony. During botafumeiro, a team of eight specially-trained “tiraboleiros” swing a large censer with incense above the congregation along an arched trajectory 200 feet long, reaching speeds of 40 miles an hour!

After a layover day of sightseeing in Santiago, I continued walking for another three days to Finisterre. Before Columbus journeyed to the Americas, this spot was considered the “end of the world” in Europe. There is a lighthouse and a beautiful view of the Pacific Ocean.

Then it was time to rest, contemplate, and spend a week exploring Portugal before returning to my regular routine. Yet I am still discovering ways that this journey has changed me.