One of the most interesting aspects of traveling over an extended period of time has been the opportunity to compare countries within a region. As a historian, I’m intrigued by how the choices different countries and their leaders have made over time influence their developments today.

Singapore’s government has chosen a strikingly different path compared to its mainland Southeast Asian neighbors over the past fifty years. As a result, Singapore is considered an Asian Tiger – a country that through intense focus on their economic infrastructure has emerged as an economic powerhouse. In general, societies that didn’t keep pace with industrial developments were unable to catch up to western societies. The Asian Tigers were the exception. The other three Asian Tigers are South Korea, Taiwan and Hong Kong.

These developments, combined with Singapore’s rich legacy as a hub of trade, have created a vibrant, dynamic and diverse country that has been fascinating to explore.

Changi Airport

Singapore’s Changi Airport is an experience in and of itself. It feels like a restaurant complex meets high-end shopping mall meets futuristic entertainment complex. After going through customs, we checked out the Rain Vortex, the largest indoor waterfall in the world. New as of April this year, it was quite a first impression of Singapore! The waterfall is surrounded by lush vegetation and ambient lighting.

It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas…sort of. I’ve been discovering that when you’re completely removed from the traditions that define the holidays, you don’t really feel like you’re missing out. In fact, it’s nearly impossible to know that they’re happening at all, apart from seeing Facebook posts from friends and family back in the United States. This gives me some peace of mind as I anticipate spending Christmas away from family for the first time in my life.

In any case, the waterfall vortex grounds are decorated with Christmas lights. They put on a special lights and music show while we were there, complete with fake snow. This has been the only Christmassy thing I’ve done this season and with the hot, muggy climate, it only mildly put me in the holiday spirit.

Other Changi Airport entertainment options include hedge and mirror mazes; gardens of sunflowers, butterflies and cacti; a rooftop swimming pool, movie theaters, etc. You can check your bags in several hours in advance to build in time to take in the sights. I was actually excited to return for my outbound flight to have more time to explore!

Singapore

Singapore itself is more expensive to visit than other Southeast Asian cities. We stayed in a capsule hotel and ate at its famous (and delicious!) hawker stalls.

The Old

Because of its strategic location, Singapore historically attracted merchants from all over the Indian Ocean region. As a result, diasporas have evolved into exciting neighborhoods made for wandering. 

Little India is full of beautiful old, colorful shops and temples.

A gorgeous Chinese temple, Thian Hock Keng, is located right next to our hotel. I really felt like I was back in China.

Next door to the temple is this lovely former Muslim shrine – now a museum.

For me, this mishmash of cultures and their religious structures was the most interesting part of visiting Singapore. There must always be an interesting festival happening here!

In addition to housing one of the Buddha’s canine teeth (encased in gold), the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple and Museum has reliquaries with many small pieces of crystallized body parts from the Buddha post-cremation (vials with small pieces of his eye, brain, etc.) – similar to reliquaries in prominent European cathedrals.

The Kampong Glam neighborhood – the “Muslim quarter” – is full of funky boutiques, cafes and bars. Its most iconic landmark is the Sultan Mosque.

The New

I spent half a day at the Singapore National Museum. Its impressive content and interactive displays gave me a better understanding of Singapore’s developments within a world historical context, as well as a greater perspective on its dramatic transformation over the past fifty years. 

Singapore wasn’t blessed with valuable raw materials, so adaptation played a crucial role in its success story.

Gardens by the Bay is a great example of Singapore’s forward-thinking, innovative mindset. This is a nature park unlike any I had ever visited. We walked on the tree canopy just before dusk and then watched an impressive light show set to opera music.

The Singapore Botanic Gardens are the most gorgeous botanic gardens I’ve ever seen. The orchid section on its own is exquisite. The grounds are extensive, with beautiful manicured walkways throughout. In general, Singapore is famous for its vast green spaces.

Singapore is also famous for its orderliness and cleanliness. Both were very noticeable! In addition to its strict laws (including, notoriously, against chewing gum), there are suggestions posted everywhere for proper behavior. It reminded me a bit of England – times ten. As a former British colony, this makes perfect sense. And I imagine that strict laws and high standards for its citizens played an integral role in Singapore’s ability to become an Asian Tiger. 

The government still canes people for serious crimes such as molestation – you may remember the famous caning incident for the American teenager caught spray-painting cars when Bill Clinton was president. There are also signs everywhere encouraging citizens to help Big Brother by reporting undesired behaviors to the authorities. I found myself always feeling self-conscious about whether I might be breaking an obscure law.

The Melting Pot?

While Singapore is one of the more diverse places I’ve visited, I didn’t see a lot of intermingling of people from different cultures. Yes, people were interested in eating other cuisines, shopping in Little India/Chinatown, etc., but I didn’t see much crossover in genuine relationships. I had an interesting conversation with a gentleman in the laundromat. He hinted at a darker underbelly in Singapore society, including the existence of a very superficial cohesion – with underlying tension – among the different cultural groups. Singapore is currently encountering anti-immigrant sentiments that parallel those in the United States.

Next Phase of Travel

While in Singapore, Elise flew home as planned and is now job-hunting. I was sad to see her go, but I am so grateful for the time we had together. 

I had a few days in Singapore by myself. I’ve discovered that I have undergone a transformation of sorts, in that I’m much more comfortable in my own skin as a traveler than I was when I began this journey.

Also, I only had to wait a few days for my new travel partner to join me. Indonesia, here we come!